The camp will run outdoors weekdays from July 3rd until August 11th from 9:00 am to 2:00 pm. We can accommodate 15 campers per day, ages 4-12.
Click here to register.
The cost is $50 per day and $225 per week. Payments can be made directly through the booking form.
Thank you for your cooperation! Looking forward to a great time at Day Camp together!
LASER RIGGING LINES (from last season):
Line Name: Line Diameter, Length, Material, Construction
Rigging the lines:
You will want to know how to tie 1) a bowline, 2) a reef knot (square knot), 3) a figure 8, 4) an overhand knot, 5) an overhand loop knot for mid-line loops 6) a luggage tag loop
Cunningham: Line Diameter = 3/16” or 5mm. Length = 15’.
1) Tie a bowline to the eye on the deck at the aft base of the mast
2) tie an overhand loop 6” above the deck
3) Lead up on starboard side of boom
4) through the sail eye from starboard to port
5) back down to starboard of boom
6) through the loop you tied in the line 6” above the deck
7) back past boom on starboard
8) Through sail from starboard to port
9) past boom on Starboard again
10) aft through the deck eye aft of the mast
11) through the clam cleat in front of the daggerboard
12) Tie a bowline loop in the end of the line so you can grab it easily and it doesn’t accidentally slip through the clam cleat if you capsize. If it slips out with the boat upside down, you might lose the mast.
Note: This line is used to flatten and thus de-power a sail. All the starboard rigging allows easy adjustment on starboard tack and for consistent settings on starboard tack. Racers like a perfect starboard tack since that is usually how you start the race. Port tack suffers a bit. You could as effectively rig on port, but races are started on starboard, so it gives you one last chance to adjust the cunningham before the start if you rig on starboard. It is easier to pull in than let out, so err to the loose side when starting your sail (unless it is windy). Pull on more as the wind picks up. The harder you pull, the less power the sail will have. Don’t be afraid of pulling too hard. At 150 Lbs, I will pull as hard as I can as soon as there are any white caps (over 12 knots.) Smaller sailors will be full on at slightly lower wind speeds, heavier sailors at slightly higher wind speeds. Leave it tied to the deck eye after sailing.
Outhaul: Line Diameter 3/16” or 5mm. Length 22 feet.
Note: When the sail is fully eased out in light winds, the aft loop knot will hit the clam cleat at mid-boom and go no farther. The bowline loop handle will be pulled up into the forward loop knot. When the sail is pulled in for strong winds, there will be a fair bit of tail in the line dangling from the front knot. This system is easy to pull in, but requires some work to let out. Therefore, err on the side of too loose. Tighten as necessary to reduce sail power. When the wind increases and you have to work too hard to keep the boat flat, pull harder. If you are a smaller person, when the wind picks up, don’t be afraid to pull as hard as you can. At 150 lbs, I would be full tight in about 10 knots of wind.
When derigging your boat after sailing, leave this line on the boom. Untie it from the sail and leave the rest in place.
Clew Tie Down: Line Diameter 4mm, length2”10”
Note: Your objective is to tie the clew as close as possible to the boom. This gives more room for the crew to duck the boom when tacking and gybing, and gives better control of sail shape, in particular reducing sail twist. It also isolates the outhaul to controlling sail fullness. Without a tie down, twist and fullness get mixed together and you can not change one setting without changing the setting on the other. Neither can you reach maximum leach tension. When derigging, tie this around the boom so it doesn’t get lost. Eventually you will lose it, so have a spare.
Traveller: Line Diameter 1/4“ or 6mm, Length 12 feet
Note: Your objective is to tighten the line across the stern that the traveller/boom block runs on. Upwind, you want these blocks maximum outboard, which is achieved with a tight traveller line. Looser traveller lines draw the stern blocks inboard, which is always slow. This line is adjusted from tight in light winds to very tight in heavy winds, so it doesn’t get adjusted much – maybe an inch at most. Always, you are trying to set the traveller “just loose enough for the traveller blocks to clear the tiller and reach the leeward gunwale”.
You will notice that the loop where the line comes together again will be set about 8” behind the stern clam cleat. You want a lot of distance here, because it gives leverage for tightening the traveller. I suspect that on some old boats it would be possible to pull the stern eyes out of the boat if the triangle formed by the loop is too straight across the boat, so I like to set the apex of my triangle half way between the working portion with the traveller blocks and the clam cleat on my boat.
Vang: Line diameter 1/4 “ or 6mm, Length 12 feet
This is another line that gets rigged from the middle toward both ends.
Although this is a lot more complicated to rig, you gain twice the mechanical advantage of a traditional rigging system, and you only do it once in the life of your boat. It gives much better control of sail twist , particularly on windy days and tames the boat a lot. In light winds let the vang completely off. In windy conditions, use the mainsheet to pull the boom onto the deck, tighten the vang as much as possible, and ease the mainsheet. The boat will be far better behaved, but you will have to duck deep to get under the boom on tacks and gybes, and if you let the boat heel on a reach the boom will get stuck on the water and capsize you. Sail the boat flat!
Mainsheet: Line Diameter: 5/16” or 8mm , Length 36 feet
Note: A thinner diameter mainsheet (7mm) will run through the blocks better, but will be harder on your hands. A thicker mainsheet (9mm) will be easier on your hands, but will not run as well. I think 8mm is a good compromise, unless you are a full time sailor or otherwise have very hard hands in which case use a 7mm line.